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 Moho (Anime Studio)
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 Does More Ram Help? (Mac)
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werew0lfgirl_99
Junior Member



185 Posts

Posted - 04/22/2017 :  7:37:24 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi,
My ability to continue to do changes to my dragon is slowing to a halt. Every time I move anything my computer freezes and shows the spinning wheel of doom. It is taking longer and longer to finish anything. I really want to work in vectors not images for flexibility for animating.

Anyway if I add more ram to my computer would it help? It is a mac lab top. Its stats say this:
MacBook Pro (15-inch, Mid 2009)
Processor: 2.8 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo
Memory: 4 GB 1067 MHz DDR3

It also has a large internal drive 300 gb which is basically empty. I save anything but my current dragon project to an external hard drive.

Kelleytoons
Forum Admin



6464 Posts

Posted - 04/22/2017 :  8:50:16 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Not sure anyone around here other than me can even run Moho on a Mac (and I only do it from time to time to test my scripts). I have ZERO idea how it actually runs there (I'm *really* far from a Mac expert) but if I were you I'd first get on the Apple forums and ask them, not so much about Moho, but just about RAM usage. They may be able to tell you how to check (for example -- if this were a Windows issue you could bring up the monitor and see how much memory you are using while your file is loaded. I suspect the same is true of Mac but have no idea how to do it).

If your computer has gotten more and more sluggish as your project goes the very first thing I'd do is save it to another file (if you've just been saving it over and over again to the same file) to see if that doesn't help. Sometimes a file can get corrupted and/or just so much junk that resaving it will help. If that doesn't work I'd take it in (again, after saving it out to another name) and start deleting layers until it started working right again. You *might* just have one wonky layer or two that is causing this issue.

Finally, if you are convinced the file is fine then it has to be either the processor speed or the memory that's a problem. In Windows this wouldn't be an issue because it works in 4GB segments (so more memory usually won't help any particular program and I'd be REALLY suspicious it would help a Moho file). But it could also be a video card problem -- nowadays faster video cards can help with a lot of programs that do graphics, even 2D graphics.

Sorry if this wasn't much help but maybe there's a Mac expert on here somewhere.

"Look, I made a hat...
Where there never was a hat"


-Mike "ex-genius" Kelley
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werew0lfgirl_99
Junior Member



185 Posts

Posted - 04/22/2017 :  9:31:26 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I may have my computer guy take a look at it.
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werew0lfgirl_99
Junior Member



185 Posts

Posted - 04/22/2017 :  9:40:51 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I tried re-saving it but it didn't help. This is the file:http://www.mediafire.com/file/ta2tqbgnks4dz52/DRAGON_FULL_BODY_STAR_FINAL_90.anime . Does it run slow for you?
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hayasidist
Gold Member



United Kingdom
1324 Posts

Posted - 04/23/2017 :  05:47:39 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I've just tried to open that file on a 32bit windows system and it causes both AS11 and Moho12 to crash. I'm away from base (as usual <sigh>!) where the 64bit systems are until the middle of next week -- I'll have another look at it then.

In the meantime you could try taking display quality right down to low or even wireframe and see if that helps.
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Kelleytoons
Forum Admin



6464 Posts

Posted - 04/23/2017 :  08:00:59 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I'm able to load it on my 64bit Windows machine (my Macbook Air is a bit harder for me to reach stuck in bed with my foot problem) but I think I know what the problem is. Or, let's put it this way, I know where I'D look for the problem.

You have a TON of layers, and they are all almost completely unnecessary. It looks like you've put each and every scale on a separate layer, so that you have a few dozen GROUPS of layers just for your lower lip (and each group containing more layers). I don't know if this is causing the problem but I have to believe that having that many layers for what really should only be one layer could be contributing to it.

I don't have the time to try and do this programmatically, but the first thing I'd do if I were you would be to collapse all those groups into a single layer. Just copy and paste and delete. This will take a lot of time, but when you are done that dragon head should have, at the most, two or three layers in it. I can almost promise you things will be just fine then.

Moho in general has always slowed down the more layers you throw at it. One time I had a couple dozen characters on stage and my system got VERY sluggish. Keep running, but was hard to work with. But even with a dozen or so characters (and each character having phonemes and hand groups) I didn't have as many layers as you have here for just one head. And I have as much memory as you can possibly have on a system, so I don't think you can fix this with more memory.

Try what I suggest and if the performance doesn't improve I'll be amazed.

"Look, I made a hat...
Where there never was a hat"


-Mike "ex-genius" Kelley
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werew0lfgirl_99
Junior Member



185 Posts

Posted - 04/23/2017 :  08:31:21 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thank you! That is a good idea. I can easily make all the scales 1-3 l ayers instead of over 50. Originally I didn't know how many rows I would have or which scales should over lap which. Sending object back or forward was a nightmare. Now for the most part I understand where they should be. I do a quick question before I combine them into a few layers. Each scale is made of 3 parts for a little shading on the scale. Is there a way to make all 3 parts a single object so when I click on it it moves all three parts?. Originally I tried making 3 wire-framed cycles, selecting all 3 and saying make object but then it would only let me color the innermost circle and the outside circle not the middle circle. I also considered custom brushes but I think the number of scales would change as I move the custom brush. I also couldn't figure out how to make a custom brush.
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Kelleytoons
Forum Admin



6464 Posts

Posted - 04/23/2017 :  1:37:30 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I'd have to look at the file again and I'm now on a machine that doesn't have Moho, but I'll try and install it later today in case no one else gets on here in the meantime and check it out.

"Look, I made a hat...
Where there never was a hat"


-Mike "ex-genius" Kelley
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hayasidist
Gold Member



United Kingdom
1324 Posts

Posted - 04/23/2017 :  4:11:22 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by werew0lfgirl_99

I also considered custom brushes but I think the number of scales would change as I move the custom brush. I also couldn't figure out how to make a custom brush.



Custom brushes do have their quirks when there's motion of, or relative to, camera - most noticeable with strokes with non-uniform line widths and/or when path lengths change.

But with planning you can get round such...

To make a custom brush (simple version):

Bitmap editor of your choice (e.g. PS) and create an empty file of (say) 128px square. The vertical centre line is the line that the image will follow if you have "align with curve".

If you want to use "tint brush with stroke colour" then have a monochrome image - "black" means 100% opacity of stroke colour; and white or transparent means 0% opacity of stroke colour (and all points in between).

Save the image as a .png and install in your custom brush folder.

Iterate!
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werew0lfgirl_99
Junior Member



185 Posts

Posted - 04/23/2017 :  6:48:32 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Kelleytoons

I'd have to look at the file again and I'm now on a machine that doesn't have Moho, but I'll try and install it later today in case no one else gets on here in the meantime and check it out.

"Look, I made a hat...
Where there never was a hat"


-Mike "ex-genius" Kelley



Oh thats is okay, no worries
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werew0lfgirl_99
Junior Member



185 Posts

Posted - 04/23/2017 :  9:50:00 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Is there a video on how to install it?
quote:
Originally posted by hayasidist

quote:
Originally posted by werew0lfgirl_99

I also considered custom brushes but I think the number of scales would change as I move the custom brush. I also couldn't figure out how to make a custom brush.



Custom brushes do have their quirks when there's motion of, or relative to, camera - most noticeable with strokes with non-uniform line widths and/or when path lengths change.

But with planning you can get round such...

To make a custom brush (simple version):

Bitmap editor of your choice (e.g. PS) and create an empty file of (say) 128px square. The vertical centre line is the line that the image will follow if you have "align with curve".

If you want to use "tint brush with stroke colour" then have a monochrome image - "black" means 100% opacity of stroke colour; and white or transparent means 0% opacity of stroke colour (and all points in between).

Save the image as a .png and install in your custom brush folder.

Iterate!

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hayasidist
Gold Member



United Kingdom
1324 Posts

Posted - 04/24/2017 :  02:44:42 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by werew0lfgirl_99

Is there a video on how to install it?



I don't know of a video ... but it's very simple... open the custom content folder; then the "brushes" subfolder; copy the .png from where you saved it to <custom content>\brushes; restart (or reload with ctrl/shift/alt L)
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werew0lfgirl_99
Junior Member



185 Posts

Posted - 04/25/2017 :  1:32:52 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Okay I finally got it :). My brush has circles in it. If I want a brush line to have 10 circles in it is there a way to lock this circles in place so that when I move the line the number of circles does not change only the amount of spacing between them and the amount they overlap does. Like beads on a necklace or in this case snake scales
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jahnocli
Junior Member



United Kingdom
250 Posts

Posted - 04/25/2017 :  3:01:17 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
There is a program where you can define a brush that will do this. The good news is it's free: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=36180
If you're interested, there are some tutorials out and about on the web. Here's one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uRFZxjeHFLQ
The bad news is it isn't being developed any more...
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hayasidist
Gold Member



United Kingdom
1324 Posts

Posted - 04/26/2017 :  05:08:50 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by werew0lfgirl_99

I tried re-saving it but it didn't help. This is the file:http://www.mediafire.com/file/ta2tqbgnks4dz52/DRAGON_FULL_BODY_STAR_FINAL_90.anime . Does it run slow for you?



I loaded this up on a 64bit i7-6700 16Gb Ram / GTX 960 GPU with 2Gb dedicated Ram and I can edit it with no performance issues at all BUT I had a load of missing image files ... Do you have GPU enabled?? Might be worth turning that off and trying again.
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hayasidist
Gold Member



United Kingdom
1324 Posts

Posted - 04/28/2017 :  05:53:18 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by werew0lfgirl_99

Okay I finally got it :). My brush has circles in it. If I want a brush line to have 10 circles in it is there a way to lock this circles in place so that when I move the line the number of circles does not change only the amount of spacing between them and the amount they overlap does. Like beads on a necklace or in this case snake scales



That one took a little longer to figure out...

The basic set up is a path with segments that are in a repeating pattern
{hidden, visible, hidden}

IOW H,V,H,H,V,H ... H,V,H <- note the two adjacent hidden segments in the middle

The visible segment length is "the right size" for just one brush image at the chosen line width

the "frame 0" distance between adjacent endpoints of the 'middle' hidden segments is the maximum separation between the "beads".

Now shorten the distance between the end points of adjacent hidden segments ensuring that the length of the visible segment doesn't change too much. I've tried two ways of doing this on a small set up of just a few beads - bones and smart mesh - and both work pretty well.

IMO a mesh will work better when there's lots of beads

If you need a demo to visualise it just let me know..
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